It’s amazing to think that we’ve gone from being grass-eaters to the molecular gastronomy practices in Lemon Grass’ kitchen.
Molecular gastronomy?
Take for example the “Raspberry Balloon.” This special dessert enjoyed on Wednesday night July 22 was more like a Modernist building on a plate. Something King and King Architects could have designed in one of its new conference rooms on the outskirts of Armory Square.
Raspberry Balloon: First, a white chocolate foundation and frame was molded. Then, this was hit artistically with a couple of brush strokes for affect in blue and green. Next, an insulation of alternately layered cake and white chocolate mouse fills the frame. The structure was standing in the center of a plate surrounded by a bright mango coulis moat to which ultra-white coconut caviar was floating for effect. On top of the construction was a small balloon made from raspberry ice. The Chef used nitrogen to create this effect. The result is a bit of a modern marvel on a plate that also tastes really, really good. Like you don’t really want desert, but you try it cause it sounds interesting, and then you clean the plate. That kind of good. It was also garnished with an edible small purple pansy.
All of the senses?
Essentially, what we have here is evolving culinary art in practice. An art form that strikes all of the senses that is also nourishing.
I should mention that we ate outside, so we had the sounds of hot time summer in the city for our listening pleasure.
And, touch we did: As simple forking or spooning wouldn’t suffice when it came to tearing down those white chocolate walls. I had to pick up a piece of the wall and look at those brush strokes. Wow.
The special appetizer alone was crazy
The special fresh crab spring roll: I remember it being at least a foot long spring roll made with a house made sesame wrap.
The wrap was rolled around a mixture of fresh lumps of sweet king crabmeat, long Julianne of crisp cucumbers, fresh cilantro, a small-dice spicy Thai sausage, plus other ingredients. It was topped with a light mustard sauce painted with tamarind glaze. This was placed on a long, narrow, white rectangular plate and garnished with savory radish sprouts. The waiter delivered it by setting it on the table across from the two of us and then sliding it between us, as if he were launching one of those old classic rockets at Cape Canaveral (Kennedy Space Center). It tasted as spectacular as it was described, maybe even more so. Oh yes, there was a bowl of rice vinegar and peppers for dipping to contrast the sauce on the roll.
Another interesting feature to Lemon Grass’ food is that the balance is beautiful between richness and freshness. So that at the end of the meal, you don’t feel as if you have slightly poisoned yourself. It must be the lack of a total-butter-experience that one often gets from classic French or American cookery. I should back up and say that I think Lemon Grass is considered a Thai - American restaurant. And, they know how to mix it up on the menu for the person who just doesn’t want to go Thai. For example, there is a Maytag Blue Cheese Salad - real Americana.
Considering the price points
The downside is that Lemon Grass is pricey. You can’t eat there every night. But on the upside, it is not the priciest joint in town. You can certainly eat on a budget, but the menu may tempt you to falter. It is in the $30 entree range with everything else including desserts and drinks being around $10ish.
But also consider that when you pay this tariff you are getting the real deal. I mean, really fresh seafood; melt in your mouth crab that must of come from one of those Deadliest Catch boats fresh from the fishing grounds in the Bering Sea. There were also succulent sea scallops, chocolate with a high butter fat content, sticky rice that stuck and peppers that delivered a wonderful subtle, yet enduring, heat.
And who could visit Lemon Grass without a bit of duck?
Okay, sure you can make duck at home. But really, whom do you rely on as your source? What the heck do you do with all the fat you render from cooking this particular bird? And, why do you need to clean your oven in the middle of summer?
Lemon Grass started during “the grilled or pan seared sliced duck breast rage” by featuring instead an age-old-perfect-way of cooking a whole duck so that the meat is moist and falling apart with crispy, flavorful thick and delicious skin. It is the duck equivalent of the Dinosaur BarBQue’s pulled pork. And like the Dino, Lemon Grass then offers several different sauce alternatives. You can’t go wrong with Lemon Grass’ Duck - ever.
Comfortable, smart service
To add to this extravaganza, consider Christian. He was the waiter. A handsome yet endearing young Syracuse man, who really knew the menu and how to explain it, navigate it and even work around it. Ask him a question and he could give you the history of the item with a personal anecdote, too. We ordered more than we had wanted, based on his knowledge. Oh well.
I should also mention the front of the house manager, Randy Miller, who was the Maitre d’ Hotel that night. His whole approach was something I would call, “classy casual” or “upscale downtown.” Meaning not much pretense, with a welcome upon entering the establishment communicating that certainly a good time lay ahead, like we were on an adventure.
Anyway, as I am always saying to my students in the hospitality program at Onondaga Community College, a large part of a successful dining experience is the vibe. And holding that vibe throughout the experience is the real test for the restaurateur. A great Chef, such as the owner of Lemon Grass, needs a remarkable support staff in the front of his house. Miller delivers the two of Lemon Grass’ one two-punch experience.
How to get there
Lemon Grass is located across from the MOST at 238 West Jefferson Street, in the Armory Square section of Syracuse. Contact is 471-1111 or lemongrasscny.com.
