Eating good at Cazenovia's Circa Restaurant

For sheer audacity, one can’t help but admire Applebee’s slogan that its customers are "eatin’ good in the neighborhood." With 1600 restaurants in 49 states, Applebee’s not only has trademarked the phrase "There’s nothing like the neighborhood," they also proudly proclaim "we’re everywhere you are," apparently not noting the irony that neighborhood and being everywhere are near-perfect opposites.

In truth, I don’t have anything against Applebee’s. What they do, they do well enough, and I have plenty of friends with small children who look upon their restaurants as a godsend. But the idea that neighborhood and being everywhere are synonymous turns common sense on its head. So while I will eat at Applebee’s if invited by friends, I draw the line at accepting their definition of neighborhood.

Which brings me to my neighborhood and to my favorite local restaurant: Circa, located at 76 Albany St. in Cazenovia. Circa is my idea of what a neighborhood bistro should be: friendly and unassuming, with an oft-changing menu that reflects the singular vision of a talented chef and the seasonal availability of locally farmed ingredients. Which is a long way of saying the ingredients are fresh, the menu changes weekly, and the food is exceptional.

Opened in February 2006 by chef Alicyn Hart and her husband Eric Woodworth, a Cazenovia native, Circa bills itself as a new American bistro that works "with local farmers and regional artisans" to create "a seasonal menu that changes weekly." An increasing number of restaurants make similar claims these days, but Circa walks the walk as well as talks the talk. I regularly pester Alicyn about the source of various ingredients, and to the best of my knowledge, every ingredient I have inquired about came from a local or regional farmer, cheesemaker, or producer: lamb from Meadowood Farm in Cazenovia, fresh herbs from Fresh Herbs of Fabius, terrifically flavorful, free-range chickens from Ingallside Meadow Farm of Canastota, etc.

Working with dedicated local producers, Alicyn allows the quality of the ingredients to speak for themselves, so that so that every dish, whether a bowl of soup or a dinner entree, is simply prepared and yet more than the sum of its parts. A recent lunch date with Jennifer Baskerville-Burrows, author of the Cookin’ in the ‘Cuse blog, makes my point. For lunch, Jennifer and I began with the cheese plate appetizer ($10), which featured generous portions of Old Chatham’s Hudson Valley Camembert and Ewe’s Blue, a decadently rich, sheep’s milk blue cheese, two "Dutch-style" semi-soft cheeses from Dutch Girl, an artisanal cheesemaker in Leonardsville, and my personal favorite, a crumbly, full-flavored Tilsit from the Brovetto Dairy Farm of Harpersfield, which was washed in Ommegang Ale.

For our lunch entrees, Jennifer ordered the daily special, a grilled panini sandwich of sliced chicken breast, avocado, and field greens served on home-baked bread ($7), while I ordered the cup of soup and 1/2 sandwich combo ($7) The soup, a parsnip and carrot puree, was thick and delicious, with a silky smooth texture. The chicken (I also ordered the daily special) was tender and flavorful, with a slight gaminess that immediately reminded me that free-range, farm-raised chicken tastes nothing like the flavorless, factory-farmed chickens found in most supermarkets.

I’ve enjoyed many lunches at Circa, including their wonderful hamburgers, which are made from local, pasture-raised beef, lamb, turkey or elk (there is also a homemade vegetarian burger), and which come with fresh, homemade potato chips. For lunch, the burgers, which come with various toppings and are served on a homemade brioche roll, cost $6 to $7; they are also available on the dinner menu, for $10, and are served with a side of homemade chips and a Caesar salad or a salad of organic field greens.

The dinner entrees, however, are in my opinion where Circa really shines. Last week I enjoyed a memorable dinner of slow roasted, brined pork loin with chimichurri sauce ($16), a fresh, salsa-type sauce made from chopped parsley, minced garlic and olive oil, which is the classic Argentinian accompaniment for grilled meats. The pork loin was moist and flavorful, and a great match for the herby, garlicky chimichurri sauce. It was only after I had finished and complimented Alicyn on the meal, that I learned that Eric, Alicyn’s husband, had raised the pig on their property. That’s local, and that’s Circa.

For food of this quality, prices at Circa are very reasonable. The lunch menu ranges from $3 to $8 for soups and salads, while sandwiches cost between $6 and $8. There is always a fresh soup on the menu, and usually one or two daily lunch specials. The dinner menu changes weekly, with appetizers costing between $5 and $8, and dinner entrees costing $14 to $22, with most entrees falling in the $15 to $16 range. The restaurant also has a nice selection of wine and local microbrews.

Circa celebrated its four-year anniversary this past February, and is open for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations are recommended for Friday and Saturday evenings. There is also a terrific Sunday brunch from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. The restaurant retails many of the local products featured in its dishes, and hosts a farmer’s market the third or fourth Saturday of the month. The next farmers market will meet on Saturday, March 27 from 9 to 12 a.m. For reservations or further information call 655-8768 or visit Circa’s website at circarestaurant.net.

Neil Brody Miller teaches American History at Onondaga Community College and is the author of StressingtheVine.com, a blog on Central New York wine, food, art and culture.

CATEGORY: Culture
TAGS: Circa, Cazenovia, Neil Brody Miller
EDITION: Cazenovia Republican

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